By Debi Lander
mail@floridanewsline.com 

Naples, Italy, often seems to be snubbed, overlooked, or underrated. Most travelers use it as a base for tours to Pompeii or the picturesque villages clinging to the Amalfi Coast. Still, they need to explore the city’s charms. During my visit, I saw and highly recommend Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast, but I am so thankful I added three wonderful days in the city. Honestly, I wish I had stayed longer. 

The Naples Archeological Museum ranks as one of the grandest in the world. Begun as a palace when Naples had kings, it expanded to host a treasure trove of priceless ancient artifacts, sculptures, artworks, and furnishings. I marveled at the beauty of 2,000-year-old mosaic floors, jewelry, and vases in the building that still feels like a palace.  

When the excavations at Pompeii began in the 1700s, the king ordered all the best discoveries sent to him. So, when you visit the ruins, you’ll see primarily replicas of the artworks that graced the mountain town. The originals are kept safe in the Naples Archeological Museum, including the famous erotic art in the Secret Room. You’ll want to see these authentic gems. In addition, the museum houses the fabulous Farnese Collection, a display of behemoth statues that stood in Rome’s Baths of Caracalla. I felt tiny next to these giants.   

Like all Italian cities and towns, Naples contains many ornate churches. But a smaller private chapel surpassed the golden icons. The Cappella Sansevero is home to the stunning Veiled Christ carved in 1753. A life-sized marble statue of Christ crucified lies on a pillow topped with a flowing, translucent shroud. It’s made from one solid block of Carrara marble and mesmerizes all. You wonder if it’s magical as you peer through the stone. This work is considered one of the most extraordinary sculptures on earth. 

Within a few yards stands another staggering piece: The Release from Deception. Fishing nets surround the figures again carved from solid marble. The tangled netting is so intricate it defines reality. Don’t miss the Sansevero Chapel. 

The famous artist Caravaggio, known for his use of dramatic light, escaped Rome for Naples after supposedly murdering a man. In 1607, Caravaggio painted the fascinating Seven Works of Mercy above the main altar in the Misericordia Church, where you can still see it. This masterpiece depicts the seven virtues, some say, to atone for himself. Sadly, the artist was killed returning to Rome, where he was to be pardoned. Caravaggio died at age 37 and left few masterworks, so grab the opportunity.  

As you wander through Naples’s tiny, crowded alleyways, you’ll see local artisans carving cameos and presepi. Presepi are miniature to life-size keepsake nativity figures by expert craftsmen. You’ll also find less expensive presepi dressed as villagers in traditional costumes, some incorporating movement. A new, kitschy form of presepi are pop entertainers or sports figures. 

Naples’s history includes ancient Roman remains now beneath the streets, and several tours take visitors below. The city also boasts three funiculars to whisk folks up the hill for fantastic harbor views.   

Remember that pizza originated in Naples? When hungry from exploring the walkable historic district, be sure to enjoy the yummy thick-crust pie; however, my favorite meal came from the Seafront Pasta Bar. Here, a team of chefs prepares mouthwatering fresh pasta dishes in front of diners sitting at a bar. So delicious and better than the Food Network.

Some will call Naples gritty, but it has jewels. I missed the Opera House, Castle, Royal Palace, and Hanging Gardens because I needed more time! 

If you go, I recommend Rick Steves’ Guidebook.

Visit www.bylandersea.com to read more of local travel writer Debi Lander’s stories and travel tips.

Photo courtesy Debi Lander
Crowded alley.