We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday Shopping Time shares five standout timepieces with you.
We’ve investigated the best shopping possiblities for watches like the Rolex GMT Masters, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, (pre-TAG) Heuer chronographs. steel Rolex Daytona, the Cartier Tank, and so many more, but, of course, none of those brands appeared on our list of the “25 Greatest Independent Watchmakers in the World.” MB&F, however, was a shoe-in, and our appreciation for the avant-garde Swiss watchmaker’s wildest watches and clocks has been well documented.
Shortly after we put MB&F on our best independents list, the company announced that Chanel had taken a 25% ownership stake. This may disqualify MB&F from a strict definition of “independence,” but it would be hard to argue that MB&F is not among the most—perhaps the most—independently minded watch brand in the world.
The Horological Mahcines from MB&F are where it’s at. Go big, and go weird—that’s what MB&F is all about, after all. But don’t ever assume that this avant-garde design spirit has led to any downplaying, or short-cutting, of the mechanical prowess of these incredible watches. They are machines, first and foremost, and they are among some of the most sophisticated in the world.
Below are five of the very best MB&F watches you can buy right now.
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MB&F HM2 WT – $51,134
Image Credit: Chrono24 The early years of MB&F’s Horological Machine project exhibit a level of restraint compared to what the brand is producing today, and the process of pushing further with each release is evident in HM1 through HM4 (and in some ways, straight through to today). HM2 is a perfect example, with a clean, rectangular case the splits functions into two distinct regions. A retro futuristic design language begins to emerge here, with flying buttresses, portholes, and a sliding crown guard all dominating the design features of the case. MB&F worked with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and Maximilien Di Blasi along with Patrick Lété to design the architecture of the movement, which uses a retrograde jumping hour mechanism, and displays dual hemisphere phases of the moon.
This example comes to us from Chrono24, and features a case constructed of white gold and titanium, which helps to keep the broad dimensions (59 x 38 x 13 mm) in check on the wrist. This particular execution is a favorite example of ours for what it symbolizes for the brand, and for the doors that it would open. This is a beautifully preserved example for a watch that was first launched in 2008, and while it doesn’t come with its original box, it will come with the papers from the brand. This is a piece of MB&F history and will be seen as a foundation stone by collectors and enthusiasts.
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MB&F HM3 MegaWind Final Edition 35.WBTL.B – $79,850
Image Credit: Analog Shift The HM3 is where the Horological Machines really take a leap into new, more conceptual territory. HM3 was first revealed in 2009, and was immediately captivating not only for its avant garde design, but also for the fact that it could be had in one of two orientations, allowing it to be worn vertically or horizontally opposed on the wrist. The movement would set the hour and minutes into two separate pod-like structures that were inspired by old school science fiction spaceships, and brought to life by designer Eric Giroud and Max Busser, and produced by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht.
This HM3 is the MegaWind Final Edition reference 35.WBTL.B, and as the name suggests, is one of three different models to close out the production of the MegaWind. The case is black PVD treated white gold, and while the shape may look (and indeed is) rather unconventional, it’s surprisingly easy to wear on the wrist thanks to the design of the lugs, and the soft leather strap with spring loaded deployant clasp. This example is offered by Analog Shift, and is listed in excellent condition. The watch will come with its box and papers, making this a perfect example to celebrate the origins of MB&F deep creativity.
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MB&F LM Split Escapement EVO – $94,850
Image Credit: Analog Shift In 2014, MB&F introduced a new collection dubbed Legacy Machines with the LM101. These watches asked the question ‘what if Max had been born about 100 years earlier’ and feature designs that reflect this concept. Unlike Horological Machines, Legacy Machines feature round cases, but don’t let that fool you into thinking these are more conventional watches. A defining feature of Legacy Machines is their placement of the balance wheel and hairspring, which are suspended over the dial via a dramatic bridge. This brings the most dynamic element of the movement to the portion of the watch we get to look at most often, the dial.
The LM Split Escapement is exactly that. This movement places the balance and hairspring on top of the dial, but it connects it to the escape wheel and remainder of the escapement positioned underneath the dial by way of a long balance staff. This execution was first seen in the LM Perpetual, designed by Stephen McDonnell. The result is an uninterrupted experience of the heart of the watch. In this edition, the reference 04.TR.LB, uses a titanium case and a shock absorbing “FlexRing” making it a somewhat practical all around watch for those on the go. We love this watch for its ability to pair MB&F’s unmistakable design and craft with a robust construction.
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MB&F LM Sequential EVO – £142,000
Image Credit: A Collected Man The Legacy Machine Sequential is the latest in the LM’s apex editions featuring a novel take on a complication that most of us are familiar with. But not like this. From the mind of watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, the LM Sequential EVO is a complete rethink of the chronograph that uses a ‘twinverter’ or binary switch that can couple the timing of two chronographs, or allow them to run independently, or any combination thereof that you might be able to think of. It’s a stroke of genius and the manner that it’s been built is nothing shy of momentous.
The dual chronograph displays sit side by side on the dial, while the dial displaying the hours and minutes is situated at an angle between them at the bottom of the dial. The balance sits over the top of everything at the top of the dial, and the total view is awe inspiring. This example on offer from A Collected Man features a black dial and a zirconium case, and is the most sober configuration built by MB&F. The watch is offered as a full kit and is listed in excellent overall condition. This is also an EVO model, meaning it gets a shock absorbing flex ring allowing for regular use even during physical activities.
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MB&F HM3 FrogX Purple – 148‘549 CHF
Image Credit: MB&F Finally, we’re returning to HM3 once more, but this time, in a very different configuration from the MegaWind seen above. After the release of HM3, MB&F surprised us with a new Frog variation, which brought a more organic shape to the case resembling, well, a frog in some areas. In addition to metal cases, these variations were also offered with full sapphire cases, which allowed their colorful seals to be visible at a glance. This is the most expressive version of the HM3, and distinctly different from the original vision.
This particular HM3 Frog is currently available in the pre-owned sections of MB&F’s own shop, meaning it’s been fully inspected and serviced (as needed) by the folks that originally built it. The FrogX marks the 10th anniversary of the HM3, and this purple example was limited to just 10 examples produced. We love this expression of the HM3 as it shows the range of the brand’s designs, as well as their creativity in creating such vibrant variations. The likes of these watches are rarely seen these days, and their existence is worth celebrating.
Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
Authors
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Blake Buettner
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